I finally managed to get myself out of Nuweiba this morning… really, really early this morning. I joined up with a tour group from one of the expensive resorts along the coast. I paid just for the ferry transport from Taba to Aqaba and then sweet-talked my way into a free ride to Petra. I probably could have stayed with the group of the entire day and the guide probably wouldn’t have cared. But, I was exhausted and really wanted to crash for a couple of hours.

Jordan has been a nice change compared to Egypt. The society seems a bit more liberal (I still get harassed when I walk down the streets, but it is less often than when I was in Egypt). I get the feeling that if I spent some time in Amman I would really like it.

I went to bed early and slept peacefully, with the exception of the calls to prayer. The late night and early morning calls have woken me up almost every day during my time in the Middle East. Sometimes the calls aggravate me (usually when the guy doing the call can’t work the sound system or is tone deaf) but usually I enjoy the calls. I have begun to mark my days by them.

My room here in Nuweiba is big and has air-conditioning... like a little slice of heaven in a heavenly place. I eat a huge breakfast every morning just inches away from the ocean's tide. At night, I read or write along the shore while two puppies, Max and Luna, run in circles around me. It’s a good life for a dog in Nuweiba.

Jordanian camel

Max and Luna

I watched these dogs for hours. They would run and jump and splash in the water, then they would waddle up to me and I would scratch them behind their ears.

Splashing in the sea

One of my favorite quotes about traveling is: "I would spend my entire lifetime traveling, if I could have another to spend at home." Last summer when I missed home, I missed the ease and comfort that the U.S. affords me. Now I find myself missing my friends and Seattle. The great thing about traveling is that it gives you perspective and makes you more appreciative of what you have back home. I will always be amazed that the buses in Seattle run on time, and that the drivers know practically every street; at the cleanliness of Seattle's parks and air; at the friendliness of the locals; and that no matter where I am I am always a stone's throw away from a cup of the best coffee in the world. I love traveling... but it is really great to know that now I have an actual home to come back to.

The sign for the camp I was staying at. There were only two other people the entire time I was there. The place was hauntingly quiet and lonely at times.

Wading in the Red Sea

Wondering how hard it would be to swim over to Saudi Arabia...

At night

I doubt that Moses actually climbed to the top of Mount Sinai. It is a really long, steep climb and I'm more inclined to believe that he walked a couple hundred feet up the mountain then hid behind the nearest rock and prayed to God that he didn't have to go any further. Let’s also remember that there were no trails during Biblical times. I doubt a man with Moses' poor navigational skills (remember he kept his people wandering for 40 years) could have figured out how to get to the top of Mount Sinai. All skepticism aside, the climb to the top of Mount Sinai was much harder than I expected. The trail begins as a long winding path and then branches just past St Katherine's Monastery. You can either take the 3,000 steps of repentance or the long "camel path". I know that I probably have a lot to repent for, but I figured not 3,000 steps worth, so I took the camel path.

Although the trip was longer and steeper than I expected, the sunrise over the mountains was spectacular, and made the trip worth it. Just before the sun rose, the entire sky turned shades of blue and pink. Then, within a matter of seconds, the sun appeared over the horizon. Its rays were reflected by the clouds and it reminded me of one of those pictures from an illustrated Bible. Back down at the Monastery, I gazed at the Burning Bush (FYI it wasn't still burning). The monks nodded in approval of my covered arms and head. They were the first men in Egypt who didn't make me feel like I was dressed like a common whore...

The mountains of Egypt at night

Early in the morning

The mountain was crowded with Russian and Australian pilgrims

The sun beginning to rise...

St. Katherine's Monastery

A little hut on the side of the mountain where one monk from the order lives in solitude

The burning bush

Notes left in the wall under the burning bush

The rooms that the monks rent out to tourists

Nuweiba is a tiny village on the Red Sea Coast. From the beach at my hotel, I can see Saudi Arabia, just 5 miles across the ocean. The tourist season is over, so I have the beaches all to myself. The wind is strong here; it creates ocean waves that almost knock you off your feet if you are standing on the shoreline. The blueness of the water reminds me of the Oregon Coast back home... but the water is warm here, like it never is there.

I can't believe I've swam in the Red Sea... Any chance I could figure out how to part it?

Can you believe all this fit into my backpack?

This is what happens when I have an entire room all to myself

Getting on the bus to go to Sinai, I realized how alone I am. For the past three weeks I have been surrounded by people from home, but today I left them and set out on my own. I try to convince myself that I'm okay and that everything will turn out fine. But yet again, I scared to death... why do I do this to myself?

When ever I get homesick or scared I remember the feeling I got standing at the base of the Acropolis and the feeling I had gazing at the pyramids. Those moments make the fear and homesickness worthwhile. Those moments define me.... Today on the bus I realized how far I've come. Most people live their entire lives talking about their dreams, and never living them. But at 17 I made a decision that I wouldn't be like that, and I left home to follow my dream. It’s over a year later, and I'm still living it. I hope and pray that I may have the courage to never stop.

Picture from the window of an Egyptian bus

The Red Sea!!!!

Another Egyptian camel

I went to class at AUC (The American University in Cairo) with Masouda today.  The campus is very small and it is literally jammed into the heart of downtown Cairo.  It's tiny size (only 4,000 students!) made me grateful for UW's big beautiful and anonymous campus.

After class my friend Laila took me under her wing (which I am sure was a welcome relief for Masouda).  We went to her beautiful house and then she took me to a restaurant which served American-style diner food.  We feasted on mozzarella sticks, chicken fried steak, mashed potatoes, strawberry milkshakes and an Oreo ice cream dessert--all for around $11!  I swear I have never eaten better than I have on this trip.

We walked across Zamalek to our professor Mike's house to watch a video of our presentations in Cyprus.  The night was a farewell for me, and I said goodbye to all the amazing Egyptian friends who had been so incredibly kind and generous to me over the past couple of weeks.  They are without a doubt the kindest and most generous people I have ever met.  It was heartbreaking to say goodbye, but I have the rest of my journey ahead. 

Just when I was starting to get frustrated and fed up with Cairo, I am sent relief, in the form of an honest and kind taxi driver. 

When I got into the taxi he introduced himself and then blurted out, "you Christian?".  I answered yes and he excitedly said "me too!" exposing the Coptic cross hanging from his mirror.  After a couple of minutes of silence I decided to try to keep the conversation rolling, but the only thing I could think to say was, "I love Jesus" he smiled and said "I love Jesus too!" From that moment forward, we were best friends.  I hired him on the spot to drive me around the entire day--without a doubt the best decision for any budget traveler in Cairo (someone contact Lonely Planet!).  For an entire day I didn't need to worry about haggling.  If I needed a bottle of water, he bought it for me.  He helped buy my tickets and made sure I gave my ticket to the right person (apparently local "tour guides" like to lurk near the entrance and grab your ticket and don't return it until you have enjoyed and paid for a tour). 

Giza was an amazing experience.  Another one of those moments when I felt as if I was outside my body.  Words cannot describe the thrill I had gazing at the Pyramids.  It was unbelievable. 

Camels, "An Egyptian Cadillac" the camel wrangler's quote--not mine

One more thing I check off my list...

Today was my first day on my own in Cairo.  Somehow I managed to make it through alive. 

What frustrates me most about Cairo is that I am aware that when I am on my own, I am always being cheated.  everyone, from the museum employees to the shopkeepers to the cab driver is always charging me 3 to 4 times the price they would charge a local.  While it was somewhat endearing yesterday at the bazaar--of course then I had friends stepping in to intercede on my behalf.  The assumption that since I am white I must be rich, is difficult for me to wrap my head around.  Of course, they are probably right.  But I won't be able to stay in Cairo much longer if I keep getting charged these exorbitant prices for everything.

I visited the Saladin Citadel and the Mohamed Ali Mosque.  The citadel is perched on a hill above the city and has beautiful views... or I guess they would have been beautiful if the smog wasn't so thick.  I stood on the edge of one of the citadel walls, built to keep out the Crusaders, squinted my eyes and was able to the ancient pyramids in the distance.  What amazing history.  I simply cannot believe I have seen, touched and felt these places myself...

The Citadel and Mosque and HUGE.  The windows alone are probably 10 feet high.

Can you see the Pyramids?

Today Masouda and I met up with the rest of the Americans and some more AUC students.  We met at El-Fishawi, the most famous cafe in Cairo and it is located in the heart of the bazaar.  We indulged in sheesha and sweet tea, then broke into groups for some touristy shopping.

I was lucky enough to be in a group with Mohamed, who could probably talk a cat into giving him its tail.  When I spotted something I liked I would discreetly let Mohamed know, then he proceed to bargain with the shopkeeper to get the price low.  I felt incredibly guilty the entire time, because he was lower the prices down to almost nothing.  I mean, I don't like getting ripped off, but I also don't mind paying a slightly inflated price because I'm a tourist. 

The art of the bargain, is truly amazing.  Mohamed and the shopkeeper would greet each other politely.  Then they would begin an elaborate ceremony which I wish I could have had subtitles for. They would slap their knees, smack their fists, yell, laugh, and then start all over again.

Beautiful, winding and narrow.  The bazaar is like stepping back in time.

Mohamed treated us to an amazing meal.  There were a couple "delicacies" that would have felt at home on a Fear Factor episode, but overall the meal was amazing.

It seems I have been naive as to what a actual culture shock is... I thought my previous travel experiences would have prepared me, but now I realize nothing could have prepared me for Cairo.

There are cars everywhere, the only thing outnumbering the cars is people.  And its not just the sheer number of people that I find shocking, its that they all seem to find my presence shocking.  There is no possible way I can blend-in here.  I'm convinced that even if I wore a burka, people on the streets would still stare at me and know that I was a foreigner.

I know now that no matter how hard I try, I will never belong in Cairo.  Cairo belongs to the millions of people who roam her streets and sleep in the ramshackle houses.  During my time here I know I can't hope to experience Cairo as anything more than a tourist. 

The Old City, at sunset. 

It is strange how quickly one can begin to feel like they belong, in a city thousands of miles away from their home. Athens has begun to feel like home to me. On my last night I took a “volta” along the skirts of the Acropolis just like I did my first night. That first night was so magical, and as I gazed up at the Acropolis I realized that the magic was still there. No matter how familiar things become, there will always be something that will take your breath away every single time.

Plaka

Tomb of the Unknown Solider

Greek changing of the guard

Greek Parliament